If you've ever looked at a bag sewing pattern and wondered what the difference is between a D-ring and a rectangle ring, which way a strap slider goes, or what size hardware you need for a 1-inch strap, you're not alone.

Bag making hardware can be confusing when you're getting started because many pieces look similar but serve different purposes. Then you have sizes, finishes, opening widths, and hardware that may be decorative, functional, or both.

The good news is that once you understand a few basics, choosing purse hardware becomes much easier.

This bag making hardware guide covers the pieces you'll see most often in handbag, tote, crossbody, backpack, and wallet sewing patterns, including D-rings, rectangle rings, strap sliders, swivel hooks, buckles, strap anchors, rivets, magnetic snaps, purse feet, zipper pulls, strap ends, and zipper ends.

How Bag Hardware Sizing Works

One of the easiest mistakes to make is choosing hardware based on its overall size instead of the width of the strap it's designed to accommodate.

If your pattern calls for a 1-inch strap, you'll generally be looking for hardware with a 1-inch inside opening anywhere that strap needs to pass through.

That might include:

• 1-inch rectangle rings
• 1-inch D-rings
• 1-inch strap sliders
• 1-inch swivel hooks
• 1-inch buckles

The same idea applies to ¾-inch, 1¼-inch, and 1½-inch straps.

But don't rely on the listed size alone. Hardware can vary in shape, thickness, and usable opening from one style or manufacturer to another. A thick faux leather strap may also fit differently than thin polypropylene webbing of the same nominal width.

If you're substituting hardware instead of using exactly what the sewing pattern recommends, check the inside opening and test the actual strap material whenever possible.

D-Rings

A D-ring is exactly what its name suggests: a ring shaped like the letter D.

D-rings are commonly used as attachment points for removable straps, handles, wristlet straps, and other bag hardware. The straight side gives the strap or connector a place to sit while the rounded portion provides room for a swivel hook or similar attachment.

You'll often see D-rings attached to a bag using a small fabric, vinyl, faux leather, or webbing connector.

Common uses for D-rings:

• crossbody strap attachment points
• removable shoulder straps
• wristlet straps
• side connectors
• decorative hardware details

D-rings work especially well when you want the attached hardware to have some freedom of movement.

Rectangle Rings

Rectangle rings serve many of the same purposes as D-rings, but their straight sides create a different look and can help a strap or connector sit flatter.

They're frequently used for handles, shoulder straps, strap connectors, and decorative attachments.

Common uses for rectangle rings:

• handle attachments
• shoulder strap attachments
• crossbody strap connectors
• strap anchor points
• decorative bag hardware

Whether a pattern uses a D-ring or rectangle ring is often a combination of function and design. If you're substituting one for the other, make sure the opening accommodates the strap and that the new shape won't interfere with the way the connector is constructed.

Strap Sliders

A strap slider, sometimes called an adjustable slider or tri-glide, allows you to make an adjustable bag strap.

This is the piece of hardware that lets a crossbody or shoulder strap become longer or shorter.

The strap is threaded through the slider in a specific way so that the hardware grips the strap while still allowing the wearer to adjust its length.

When choosing a slider, match the inside width to the width of your finished strap. A slider that's too narrow can bunch or scrape the strap. One that's too wide can allow the strap to shift from side to side.

Swivel Hooks

Swivel hooks, also called swivel clasps or snap hooks, allow a removable strap to clip onto a bag.

You'll commonly find one at each end of an adjustable crossbody strap. The hook attaches to a D-ring, rectangle ring, strap anchor, or another compatible attachment point on the bag.

The swivel portion allows the strap to rotate, which helps prevent twisting while the bag is being worn.

Common uses for swivel hooks:

• removable crossbody straps
• shoulder straps
• wristlet straps
• convertible bags
• key straps and interior clips

Pay attention to both the strap opening and the size of the hook itself. A large, heavy swivel hook can overwhelm a small bag even if the strap technically fits through it.

Center Bar Buckles

A center bar buckle has a pin, or prong, that passes through a hole in the strap. It works much like a traditional belt buckle.

Center bar buckles can be functional, decorative, or both. They're a great choice when you want the adjustment hardware to become part of the bag's design.

They're often used on:

• adjustable straps
• handles
• decorative strap details
• backpacks
• structured handbags

If the buckle is being used to adjust a strap, the strap will need properly positioned holes for the buckle pin.

As with other strap hardware, choose a buckle based on the width of the finished strap rather than the overall outside width of the buckle.

Strap Anchors and Strap Connectors

Strap anchors create an attachment point for handles or straps and can add a very polished detail to a handmade bag.

Depending on the style, an anchor may attach directly through the bag exterior or work with a separate connector. Some are primarily functional while others become a prominent design feature.

Because straps place stress on a bag, the area behind a strap anchor may need reinforcement. Always follow the sewing pattern's instructions for interfacing, stabilizer, placement, and installation.

Don't install a structural piece of hardware through a weak single layer of material unless the pattern or hardware is specifically designed for that construction.

Rivets

Rivets are one of the most useful pieces of bag making hardware. They can reinforce straps and handles while also adding a professional-looking detail.

Double-cap rivets have a finished cap on both sides, which makes them especially useful when both sides of the installation will be visible.

Choosing the correct rivet isn't only about the diameter of the cap. Post length matters.

The post needs to be long enough to pass through the layers you're joining while leaving enough room for the rivet to set correctly. If the post is much too long for the material stack, the rivet can bend or set poorly. If it's too short, it may not secure properly.

Rivets are commonly used for:

• securing handles
• reinforcing strap connectors
• attaching folded strap ends
• decorative accents
• reinforcing high-stress areas

If you're using a hardware press, use the correct dies for the specific rivet you're installing. More pressure isn't a substitute for the correct post length or die.

Magnetic Snaps

Magnetic snaps provide an easy-to-open closure for handbags, totes, pockets, and flaps.

You'll commonly see prong-style magnetic snaps, screw-in styles, and hidden magnetic closures.

Whatever style you're using, reinforce the area around the snap according to your pattern instructions. Repeatedly pulling a magnetic closure open places stress on the surrounding material.

Placement matters too. Measure carefully before cutting holes or installing the snap because most hardware installations aren't easy to undo without leaving permanent marks.

Purse Feet

Purse feet are installed on the bottom of a bag. They add a finished detail and create small points of separation between the bag base and the surface it's sitting on.

They're most commonly used on structured handbags and totes with a defined base.

For a balanced appearance, purse feet should be measured and positioned consistently. Reinforcement may also be needed inside the bag base depending on the construction and materials.

Purse feet won't make the bottom of a bag completely immune to wear or dirt, but they can help reduce direct contact across the entire base.

Zipper Pulls

Zipper pulls are the sliders that open and close zipper tape, and in bag making they're also an opportunity to coordinate your zipper with the rest of your hardware.

The important thing to remember is that zipper pulls need to be compatible with the zipper tape you're using.

If you're working with #5 zipper tape, use zipper pulls designed for compatible #5 zipper tape. Don't assume a pull will fit simply because it looks similar.

Using zipper tape by the yard gives bag makers a lot of flexibility. You can cut the zipper to the length required by the pattern and choose zipper pulls that coordinate with your other purse hardware.

Zipper Ends

A zipper end is a decorative piece of hardware used to finish an exposed end of zipper tape.

You'll often see zipper ends on recessed zippers, zipper panels, or designs where the end of the zipper extends beyond the bag opening.

They aren't required for every bag, but when the zipper end is visible, this small piece of hardware can give it a cleaner, more finished appearance.

Trim and prepare the zipper end according to the pattern and the specific hardware you're using. Trying to force too much zipper tape into the hardware can make installation difficult and bulky.

Strap Ends

Strap ends are decorative hardware pieces that finish the exposed end of a strap or handle.

They're particularly useful when the end of the strap remains visible rather than being enclosed in a seam.

A strap end can hide the raw cut edge and give a handmade bag a polished hardware detail that coordinates with the rest of the project.

As with rings and sliders, choose the size based on the finished width and thickness of the strap. A strap end may be the correct width but still be too shallow for a particularly thick folded strap.

Turn Locks, Twist Locks and Bag Closures

Turn locks and other decorative bag closures are often used on flaps and exterior pockets where the closure becomes a focal point of the design.

Unlike a hidden magnetic snap, these pieces are meant to be seen.

Accurate placement is especially important because a crooked closure will be noticeable on the finished bag. Reinforce the installation area as directed by the pattern and make sure both parts of the closure align before making permanent holes.

Quick Bag Hardware Reference Guide

How to Choose a Hardware Finish

Once you've figured out the type and size of hardware you need, you get to choose the fun part: the finish.

Nickel, light gold, rose gold, gunmetal, and antique brass can completely change the personality of the same bag.

There's no rule that says every piece absolutely has to match, but coordinating the main hardware usually gives a handmade bag a more intentional, professional appearance.

If you're using light gold rectangle rings, for example, carrying light gold through the swivel hooks, slider, zipper pulls, rivets, and other visible hardware helps tie the design together.

Think about your exterior material too. Sometimes you want the hardware to blend into the overall color palette. Other times, contrasting hardware is exactly what makes the bag stand out.

Can You Substitute Bag Hardware?

Sometimes, but don't make the decision based on appearance alone.

Before substituting one piece of bag hardware for another, ask:

• Does my finished strap fit the opening?
• Will the hardware perform the same function?
• Will it sit correctly with the connector used in the pattern?
• Is it strong enough for the stress that will be placed on it?
• Will changing the hardware affect another construction step?

Swapping a D-ring for a rectangle ring may be simple in some designs. Replacing a functional buckle, strap anchor, or closure with something completely different may require changes to the construction of the bag.

When in doubt, follow the hardware type and size specified by the pattern designer.

The Right Bag Hardware Is About More Than Looks

Beautiful hardware can completely transform a handmade bag, but choosing bag hardware isn't only about finding a finish you love.

The hardware needs to fit the strap, work with the construction of the pattern, and perform the job it's supposed to do.

Once you understand what D-rings, rectangle rings, sliders, swivel hooks, buckles, rivets, strap anchors, purse feet, zipper pulls, and other common pieces actually do, reading a bag sewing pattern becomes much easier.

Start with the pattern's requirements, pay attention to the inside dimensions of the hardware, and consider the thickness of your finished straps and connectors. Then choose a finish that works with your fabrics and the overall look of the bag.

Those small details are a big part of what takes a handmade bag from finished to polished.

If you sell the bags you make, remember to include every ring, zipper pull, and rivet in your material costs. Our Handmade Bag Pricing Calculator can help you work those costs into a price that also accounts for your time, overhead, and profit.